I worked hard (and had fun) in the last year to make some reproductions. I ended up with three working bows but all have some faults. The main problem with the two first bows was, that during sinewing the angle of the ears increased. I was not able to reduce it after the bows were ready. It is not so bad with the first one (Turkish -like).This bow is covered by raw goat skin. To tell the truth the second bow was intended to be a big Chinese bow. Originally the angle of the ear was 60 degree but it increased so strongly that the bow became unstable. I had to cut from the ears 10 cm. I got a bow, which is similar to a larger Tartar bow. I think this angle increase is because on these bows a tried to increase strongly the reflex during sinewing and made the joints thinner to reduce weight. How to avoid this mistake. The third bow is my first attempt to make extreme reflex, although I could not reach the stage that the ears touches each other. It works well but it is very sensitive. Now I understand why it the Koreans take such a great care when stringing their hornbows. It can be tillered by simply by hand. This bow looks like a mixture of a Korean and a Turkish flight bow.
Data:
1st bow length:125 cm, width: 3.3 cm, thickness:1.1 cm, core: ash, pound 65 at 28"
2nd bow length:144 cm, width: 3.5 cm, thickness: 1.2 cm, core: ash, pound 65
3rd bow length:126 cm, width:2,6 cm, thickness1.0 cm, core: bamboo, pound 48

Attached should be a photograph of my second attempt at making an asiatic composite. It is loosely based on the Moshchevaya Balka bow drawing on the Magyar pages. I assumed the tick marks on the drawing were centimeters, blew the drawing up to full size and attempted to make a bow to roughly match.
I made the bow wider than the original at about 1.75", and slightly longer at just under 48" nock-to-nock (about 44" strung). It draws about 44lbs at 27" and is the quickest bow I have made.